Spring is here in Denver! The trees are getting green and flowers are starting to bloom. It’s also the season for renewal, and I’m taking that to heart by looking for ways to refresh my content in this newsletter and on Instagram. I want to keep my content valuable to you as possible, so I’d love your thoughts on what’s working and what should come next.
5 new restaurants & bars you should know about
I keep a list of all the new and upcoming restaurant openings in and around the Denver area and every few weeks I filter through them to find the ones you actually need to know about. Here’s my curated list of interesting spots that started welcoming guests in March:
New restaurant concepts
1. FiNO - Congress Park: A restaurant space on Colfax gets a brand new life
The grand opening of the All Inn Hotel is a milestone for owner Brian Toerber’s decade-long restoration project of the Colfax property. Originally opened in 1959 as the Fountain Inn, the building had fallen into deep disrepair by the time Toerber purchased it in 2016. But as of last month, the boutique hotel is officially open for business, and features FiNO, a Mediterranean restaurant on the ground floor.
Owned and operated by Steven Waters – founder of Take Care Brands Hospitality and LoDo cocktail bar Run for the Roses – FiNO is a swinging Mediterranean concept with an opening menu crafted by consulting chef Sheamus Feeley. During a preview night, the selection focused on small plates, pastas, and seafood; however, Waters noted this represents only 60% of the intended final menu. Moving forward, they plan to hire a full-time executive chef to lead the kitchens at both FiNO and All Is Well, the hotel’s lobby bar and lounge.
Vibe: Before its newest reincarnation, the space lived many lives: a steakhouse, a Mexican joint, and most recently, the gritty dance hall Rockbar, which shuttered in 2012. While those other versions left their own legacies, FiNO’s slick setup has more in common with the restaurant’s first life as the Gold Room, an elegant establishment that promised “luxurious relaxation” to the customers visiting in 1959. While the white tablecloths and waitstaff stuffed into white tuxes have been swapped for a more casual look of burl wood patterned tabletops and a uniform of fitted black tees and pants, some direct traces to the past remain – most notably the original Palos Verde stone feature wall that’s broken up by narrow windows on the south wall. While the Gold Room relied on dark wood and pale yellow upholstery, Abigail Plantier of Maximalist – also a partner in the hotel – tapped into the sleeker side of 1950s and 60s design. For the booths, tables, and chairs, she drew on organic, simple forms reminiscent of Arne Jacobsen or George Nelson with the pieces get a fresh spin with a jewel-toned palette of ruby, pale lapis, and jade green in touch-me textures like smooth vinyl, soft mohairs, and nubby wools. The bar and lounge area at the front of the restaurant are particularly nice places to grab a quick drink or snack and soak up the atmosphere.
What’s on the menu: Expect broadly appealing flavors that run through dishes like a charred cabbage served with capers and lemon over a cauliflower purée. My dinner companion loved the endive Caesar and I was partial to the mafaldine al limone, which ate like a zesty adult version of buttered and Parmesan cheesed noodles. The Vodka O’s was a quirky nod to the canned pasta favored by children and your dirtbag college boyfriend, complete with mid-sized meatballs and pasta rings coated in a classic spicy tomato sauce. The toasts, all served on GetRight’s bread, are good for sharing. You can take your pick from a very fresh tasting Spanish-inspired tomato toast (add on a serving of jamón ibérico) or Dungeness crab avocado version if it’s on the menu that day. To drink, a festive selection of sours, palomas, and margaritas, as well as non-alcoholic versions of the pineapple sour and the Medi marg await.